Himara and Dhermi, Albania Travel Guide: Wild Beaches Along the Albanian Riviera

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There is a moment on the drive south from Vlore when the road climbs through pine forest, crests the Llogara Pass and suddenly the whole Ionian Sea opens up below you. Steep mountains drop straight into water the color of sapphires, and tiny white villages cling to the slopes. That view is the reason we keep coming back to Himara and Dhermi.

If Ksamil is the polished, postcard end of Albania’s southern coast, this stretch is its wilder, moodier sibling. Long pebble beaches, hidden coves, hilltop castles and old stone villages make it one of our favorite parts of the country. Here is how to plan a visit, where to swim, where to stay and what we would do with a few days on this coast.

Where Are Himara and Dhermi?

Both towns sit on the central Albanian Riviera, between the city of Vlore in the north and the beach town of Ksamil and the port of Saranda in the south. Dhermi is the northern one, a village of whitewashed houses stacked above a long beach. Himara is a few kilometers farther south and larger, with a small old town on a hilltop and a modern seaside area below.

Together, they make a natural base for exploring the coast. For the big picture of the whole region, start with our Albanian Riviera guide.

How to Get There

Most visitors arrive in one of these ways:

• By car: The most flexible option. From Vlore it takes roughly an hour to reach Dhermi over the Llogara Pass, and a little longer to Himara. From Tirana, expect around four to five hours depending on traffic.
• By bus or furgon: Buses and shared vans run along the coast road between Vlore, Dhermi, Himara and Saranda, though schedules can be loose, especially outside summer.
• By ferry: In season, boats link parts of the coast with Corfu and nearby ports. Check current schedules before you plan around them.

Roads here are scenic but winding, so allow extra time and avoid driving the Llogara Pass in fog or after dark. Our Albania road trip itinerary lays out realistic driving times for the whole route.

Dhermi: Beaches, Villages and Energy

Dhermi has two personalities. Down by the water you will find the main beach, which in summer fills with beach clubs, music and a young, lively crowd. Up the hill, the old village is quiet, with narrow lanes, stone houses and small churches that feel a world away from the party below.

Drymades and Gjipe

South of Dhermi, the coast gets wilder. Drymades is a long beach with a mix of organized spots and quieter stretches. Gjipe is a hidden beach at the mouth of a small canyon that you reach by a short hike or by boat. It is one of the most beautiful swimming spots we have found in Albania, with cliffs on either side and clear, cold water. Bring plenty of water, sun protection and sturdy shoes for the walk.

The Old Village and Church of the Virgin

Walk up to the old village for sweeping views and a calmer pace. The small Byzantine-style churches are worth a look, and the evening light over the sea is wonderful. It is a good reminder that this coast has centuries of history behind its beaches.

Himara: History and Hidden Coves

Himara is the larger and more laid-back of the two. The old town, called Himara Castle or the Kala, sits on a hill above the sea with narrow stone streets and wide views. The newer seaside strip below has restaurants, cafes and several beaches.

Livadhi and Potami Beaches

Livadhi is a long pebble beach right by the town, easy to reach and a good base for swimming. Potami is a little farther along and often quieter. Both have clear water and mountain views, and both are good places to spend a slow afternoon.

Filikuri and Other Secluded Coves

For something more remote, ask locally about the smaller coves reached by boat or short trails. Boat trips from Himara visit hidden beaches that are difficult or impossible to reach by road. They make a wonderful half day, and swimming straight off a boat into an empty cove is hard to beat.

Porto Palermo Castle

A short drive south, a small triangular fortress sits on a peninsula in a sheltered bay. Built in the early 19th century and linked with the ruler Ali Pasha, Porto Palermo Castle is a striking sight, with water on three sides. It is quick to visit and makes a great photo stop on the way to Saranda.

Llogara National Park

Between Vlore and Dhermi, the Llogara Pass crosses a national park of pine and fir forest. There are viewpoints, walking trails and a few mountain restaurants serving grilled meat and local dishes. If you are driving the coast, stop here, stretch your legs and take in the panorama of the sea far below. It is also much cooler than the beaches, a welcome break on a hot day.

Himara and Dhermi vs Ksamil

If you are choosing between these stops, here is how we see them:

• Ksamil: Calm, turquoise water, small islands, more developed, better for easy beach days and families.
• Himara: Authentic, relaxed, history in the old town, a good all-rounder.
• Dhermi: Dramatic scenery, hiking and hidden beaches, with a livelier summer scene.

Ideally, you would see all three. Our Ksamil travel guide covers the southern end of the coast in detail.

What to Eat and Drink

Food here is simple and delicious. Expect grilled fish, fresh salads, local olive oil, white cheese, lamb and plenty of seasonal vegetables. Many family-run restaurants serve what the owners grow or catch, and the portions are generous. Try the local honey and orange blossom flavors, and ask for the house wine, which is often excellent and inexpensive.

Prices are lower than in Greece or Croatia. For a realistic idea of what you will spend, read our how much does a trip to Albania cost guide.

Where to Stay

The coast offers stays for most budgets, from small guesthouses and family-run hotels to design-led boutique properties and a few larger resorts. Some tips:

• In Dhermi, decide whether you want to be near the beach and the nightlife or up in the quieter village.
• In Himara, the old town offers atmosphere and views, while the seaside strip is more convenient for the beach.
• Book early for July and August. The best places fill up well in advance.
• Check for air conditioning and parking, both of which matter on this coast.

How Many Days Should You Spend?

We suggest at least two nights in Dhermi or Himara, and three or four if you want to hike to Gjipe, take a boat trip and see Porto Palermo. If you are building a longer trip, pair this coast with the cultural highlights inland. Our Berat and Gjirokaster guide is a natural add-on, and our how to plan a trip to Albania post helps you fit it all together.

Best Time to Visit

June and September are our favorite months: the sea is warm, the days are long and the beaches are less crowded and cheaper. July and August are hot, busy and expensive, though the water is wonderful. Spring and autumn can be lovely for hiking and quiet roads, but some businesses close and the sea is chilly. For a month-by-month breakdown, see our best time to visit Albania guide.

A Sample Three Day Itinerary

On the first day, drive over the Llogara Pass, stopping at the viewpoints, and settle into Dhermi for a swim and a sunset dinner. On the second day, hike or take a boat to Gjipe in the morning, then spend the afternoon on a quieter beach. On the third day, drive south to Himara, explore the old town, swim at Livadhi and stop at Porto Palermo Castle on the way toward Saranda or Ksamil.

Hiking and Outdoor Activities

This coast rewards people who like to move. The trail down to Gjipe is short but steep, and the reward is a beach you share with very few people. Around Llogara there are longer walks through the forest with sea views, and the ridge above Dhermi offers sunset hikes that feel miles from the beach clubs. If you like the water, rent a kayak or book a boat trip to see sea caves and cliffs from below. Go early in summer, carry more water than you think you need and always tell someone your plan if you head into the hills alone.

Is This Coast Right for You?

Be honest about what you want. If you need big resorts, smooth public transport and everything signposted in English, you may find this coast a little rough around the edges. If you love winding roads, spontaneous swims, local restaurants with no menu and the feeling that you have found somewhere before everyone else, you will probably fall for it as we did. It also works well for couples, friends and solo travelers who enjoy a bit of adventure, though families with very young children may prefer the shallow, sandy bays near Ksamil.

Slow Travel Tips for the Riviera

The best moments on this coast tend to be unplanned. Leave a gap in your afternoon for an extra swim, accept the offer of a coffee from a guesthouse host and eat where the locals eat. Build in buffer time on driving days, because the winding roads are slower than the map suggests, and a viewpoint will tempt you to stop every few kilometers. Traveling slowly here is not just a way to save money, it is the whole point.

Practical Tips

• Bring cash, since smaller businesses may not take cards.
• Pack water shoes for pebble beaches and rocky entries.
• Fill your tank when you can, as fuel stations are less frequent along the coast.
• Download offline maps, because mobile signal can be patchy in the mountains.
• Respect the land by carrying out your trash and avoiding fires.

Wondering about safety? Our post on whether Albania is safe shares what we have found. We always felt welcome here.

Where to Book

We book almost every stay through Booking.com, and this coast has plenty of well-reviewed guesthouses, hotels and apartments, many with free cancellation. Search Dhermi and Himara stays on Booking.com.

For boat trips, hiking tours and guided day trips, Viator has options along the Albanian Riviera. Browse Albanian Riviera tours on Viator.

Final Thoughts

Himara and Dhermi are the part of Albania that surprised us most. They have the drama of the Amalfi coast without the crowds, the beaches of a Greek island without the prices and a warmth from the people that makes you want to stay longer. Go in the shoulder season, take your time on the winding roads and say yes to the boat trip. You will not regret it.

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Keep exploring Albania with our Ksamil guide, our Butrint National Park guide and our comparison of Albania vs Greece.