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Where else can you sip a one-euro espresso next to a Roman amphitheater, then walk ten minutes to the beach for a sunset swim? That is Durres, Albania’s ancient port city, and it surprised us more than almost anywhere else on our trip.
Durres is often treated as a place you pass through on the way from Tirana airport to somewhere else. That is a mistake. It is one of the oldest cities in Albania, it has a long sandy coastline, and it sits less than an hour from the capital. In this Durres travel guide we share the best things to do in Durres, where to stay, how to get there, and whether it deserves a spot on your Albania itinerary.
Why Visit Durres?
Durres (Durrës in Albanian) was founded by Greek colonists in the 7th century BC as Epidamnos, and later became Dyrrachium, a major Roman port and the starting point of the Via Egnatia, the Roman road that ran all the way to Constantinople. Today it is Albania’s main seaport and one of its largest cities.
Here is why we think it is worth a stop:
- History on every block. Roman, Byzantine, Venetian and Ottoman layers show up right in the middle of modern streets.
- Beaches close to the capital. It is the easiest beach escape from Tirana.
- Convenience. Tirana International Airport is about 30 minutes away, which makes Durres a great first or last night.
- Value. It is noticeably cheaper than the southern Riviera, even in summer.
If you are still sketching your route, our guide on how to plan a trip to Albania walks through the big decisions first.
Best Things to Do in Durres
The Roman Amphitheater
This is the star. Built in the early 2nd century AD, the Durres amphitheater is one of the largest in the Balkans and is thought to have held around 15,000 to 20,000 spectators. Incredibly, it was only rediscovered in the 1960s, because houses had been built on top of it over the centuries. Some of those homes still sit on the rim today.
Inside, you can walk through the vaulted corridors and find a small early Christian chapel with a rare wall mosaic. Only part of the arena has been excavated, which somehow makes it more atmospheric. Entry is inexpensive, and we spent about an hour here.
The Archaeological Museum
Right on the seafront, the Archaeological Museum is the largest of its kind in Albania. It holds statues, mosaics, grave markers and everyday objects from Epidamnos and Dyrrachium. It is not huge, but it gives great context for everything you see around town. Check the opening days before you go, since hours can change.
The Venetian Tower and City Walls
The round Venetian Tower near the port is one of the most recognizable landmarks in Durres. It was built on older Byzantine fortifications, and sections of the old city walls run along the street nearby. Today there is a bar at the top, which makes for a fun place to have a drink with a view.
The Roman Forum and Baths
Scattered around the city center you will find open excavations of a Byzantine-era forum with columns and the remains of Roman baths behind the main square. They are free to peek at and easy to combine with a walk from the amphitheater to the seafront.
The Seafront Promenade
The long pedestrian promenade was rebuilt in recent years and is where all of Durres comes out in the evening for the xhiro, the traditional evening stroll. Families, couples, teenagers and grandparents all walk the waterfront, grab ice cream and watch the sunset. It was one of our favorite things to join in on.
The Royal Villa of King Zog
On the hill above the port stands the former summer villa of King Zog, Albania’s only king. It is not always open to visitors, but the drive or walk up rewards you with a sweeping view over the city, the harbor and the coast.
The Great Mosque and Old Town Streets
The Great Mosque of Durres was rebuilt after the 1979 earthquake and sits near the amphitheater. The streets around it are a nice mix of cafes, small bakeries and everyday Albanian life. It is a good place to grab a byrek for breakfast.
Beaches in Durres
Durres has a long, sandy coastline that stretches south of the city.
- Durres city beach: Convenient and lively, lined with hotels and beach bars. The water is shallow and warm, but it is not as clear as the Ionian coast in the south.
- Golem and Mali i Robit: A few kilometers south of the city, these beaches are less urban, with wide sand and plenty of beach clubs with sunbeds.
- Currila: North of the port, this little stretch is quieter and has a few seafood restaurants with great sunset views.
To be honest, if you want the turquoise water you have seen in photos, head south to the Albanian Riviera. Durres beaches are about easy, affordable, family-friendly sand, not dramatic cliffs. We loved it for a lazy afternoon.
Day Trips From Durres
Durres makes a good base for exploring central Albania.
Tirana
Albania’s capital is about 45 minutes away by car or bus. You can easily visit for the day to see Skanderbeg Square, the Bunk’Art museums and the Blloku neighborhood. See our full Tirana travel guide for ideas.
Kruja
The hilltop town of Kruja, home to Skanderbeg’s castle and an old bazaar full of crafts, is about an hour away. It is one of the best half-day trips in central Albania.
Berat
The “city of a thousand windows” is roughly two hours south by car. It is doable as a long day trip, but we recommend staying at least one night. Our Berat and Gjirokaster guide has all the details.
Shkoder
Heading north toward Montenegro or the Albanian Alps, Shkoder is about two hours up the coast. Our Shkoder guide covers Rozafa Castle and Lake Shkodra.
How to Get to Durres
From Tirana Airport
Tirana International Airport (TIA) is roughly 30 minutes from Durres by car or taxi. Taxis from the airport are set-priced, but confirm the fare before getting in. Many hotels also offer airport transfers.
From Tirana
Buses and minibuses run frequently between Tirana and Durres throughout the day, and the ride usually takes 45 minutes to an hour, depending on traffic. Tickets are cheap and are usually paid in cash on board.
By Ferry From Italy
Durres is Albania’s main ferry port, with regular overnight crossings from Bari and seasonal routes from Ancona and other Italian ports. It is a classic way to combine Italy and Albania on one trip.
Getting Around
The historic center is walkable. For the southern beaches, take a local bus along the coast road or a taxi. If you plan to explore further, renting a car in Durres or at the airport is the most flexible option.
Where to Stay in Durres
- Near the amphitheater and seafront: Best for history lovers and anyone without a car. You can walk to the ruins, the museum, the promenade and dozens of restaurants.
- Durres beach strip: Hotels right on the sand, great for families and a classic beach holiday.
- Golem: Quieter resort hotels and apartments with bigger beaches, better for a longer stay with a car.
For a one-night stop near the airport, we suggest a seafront hotel in the center. You get a sunset walk on the promenade and a quick drive to your flight the next day.
When to Visit Durres
May, June and September are ideal. The sea is warm, the weather is pleasant, and prices are lower. September was especially lovely.
July and August are peak season, when Albanians and visitors from Kosovo and North Macedonia pack the beaches. It is lively and fun, but hot and crowded, and prices rise.
Spring and autumn are perfect for sightseeing, and winter is mild compared with the rest of Europe, though many beach businesses close. Our guide to the best time to visit Albania goes into more detail.
How Much Does Durres Cost?
Durres is one of the best-value coastal cities in the Mediterranean. Here is what we typically spent for two people:
| Item | Typical cost |
|---|---|
| Mid-range seafront hotel | 45 to 90 euros per night |
| Espresso | about 1 euro |
| Byrek for breakfast | 1 to 2 euros |
| Seafood dinner for two with wine | 25 to 40 euros |
| Amphitheater entry | a few euros |
| Bus to Tirana | about 1.50 euros |
| Sunbed and umbrella | 5 to 15 euros per day |
Albania uses the lek, and cash is still preferred in many small places. For a full country budget, check out how much a trip to Albania costs.
What to Eat in Durres
- Fresh seafood: Grilled fish, mussels and shrimp are everywhere along the coast.
- Byrek: Flaky pastry filled with cheese, spinach or meat. Perfect for breakfast.
- Tavë kosi: Baked lamb with a tangy yogurt and egg topping, one of Albania’s national dishes.
- Fërgesë: A rich dish of peppers, tomatoes and cottage cheese, great with fresh bread.
- Raki: The local fruit brandy. You will likely be offered a glass at some point.
Practical Tips for Visiting Durres
- Carry cash. Cards are accepted at larger hotels and restaurants, but smaller cafes and buses prefer lek.
- Watch for traffic. Durres roads are busy, and drivers can be assertive. Take extra care when crossing, especially along the beach road.
- Stay insured. A good policy is worth it for any trip abroad. Our guide to the best travel insurance explains what we look for.
- Feeling nervous? Albania surprised us with how safe and welcoming it felt. Read our honest take on whether Albania is safe to visit.
- Pack sandals and sunscreen. The sun is strong in summer, and the sand gets hot.
How Long to Spend in Durres
One or two nights is perfect for most travelers. Spend one day exploring the amphitheater, the museum, the Venetian Tower and the promenade, and use a second day for the beach or a day trip to Kruja. If you are flying in or out of Tirana, Durres makes a relaxing first or last stop on an Albania road trip.
Where to Book
For seafront hotels and beach apartments in Durres, we use Booking.com. Look for places with sea views, air conditioning and parking if you are driving, and book early for July and August. Search Durres stays on Booking.com.
For walking tours of Durres, day trips to Kruja and Tirana, or tours to Berat, Viator has plenty of well-reviewed options, many with free cancellation. Browse Durres tours on Viator.
Final Thoughts
Durres is not the flashiest stop in Albania, and it does not try to be. What it offers is a rare mix: a 2,000-year-old amphitheater hidden in a neighborhood, a long easygoing beach, a joyful evening promenade and prices that make you want to stay one more night. If you are flying into Tirana, give Durres at least a day. You might end up loving it as much as we did.
Keep planning your Albania trip with our Tirana travel guide, our Albanian Riviera guide, and our honest comparison of Albania vs Montenegro.
